Tuesday, February 9, 2016

Back to Belfast: Going home to a city which wears its scars, but can still offer you a fabulous weekend – Northern Ireland-style

  • The capital of Northern Ireland went through a turbulent time in the Eighties
  • But it has actually recovered to come to be among Britain’s a lot of intriguing cities
  • The writer, that grew up there, returned ‘home’ to a spot fervently reborn 

Louise Cahill

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Forty years ago, Belfast was my home.

A torn city, scarred by the Troubles, which couple of visited for pleasure.

My return several years later is cathartic and joyful.

Belfast (Gaelic for ‘mouth of the sandbanks’) is a vibrant place.

A brighter era: Belfast - with its City Hall to the forefront - has shaken off the darkness that once framed it

A brighter era: Belfast – along with its City Hall to the forefront – has actually shaken off the darkness that when framed it

And among the very best means to explore is on a black cab tour. Our guide, Billy Scott, reels off the city’s social and political background, pointing out Belfast Castle, built by the Normans in the 12th century.

We head to West and North Belfast, to the Falls Road, the Royal Victoria Hospital along with its wavy railings signifying DNA, the Shankill murals and Crumlin Road Gaol, now a tourist attraction. You can easily even grab married in there.

The Irish enjoy nicknaming landmarks; Billy refers to sculptures as ‘the thingy along with the ringy’ (The Beacon Of Hope) and ‘the balls on the Falls’ (Rise).

My favourite location is the Cathedral Quarter, where we fulfill illustrator Ciaran Gallagher. His 3D mural features George Best, Van Morrison and Rihanna, and faces the Duke Of York bar – a optimal spot to sample several of Ireland’s whiskeys.

After a turn about the Metropolitan Arts Centre, we stroll to the Dirty Onion, among Belfast’s oldest buildings. when used to store barrels and crates of Jameson, it’s now a pub along with live music.

Plenty of bottle: The Duke Of York is a fine place for a tipple, with no shortage of choice

Plenty of bottle: The Duke Of York is a great position for a tipple, along with no shortage of choice

Here, we brave a music lesson along with Rohan Young, attained bodhranmaker, performer and teacher. We strike rhythms along with wooden sticks on nanny goat skin bodhrans, as Rohan calls the beats for reels, single and double jigs. You can easily turn up and join in for free.

At the City Hall grounds is the Titanic Memorial Garden and monument — a 30ft plinth displaying the names of the 1,512 people that died on the liner. Nearby is Titanic Belfast, the world’s largest Titanic visitor attraction, along with nine interactive galleries. Resurfacing, we enter the modern interior of Victoria Square, Belfast’s prime shopping site – where The Dome offers 360-degree views.

I look to Samson and Goliath – Harland and Wolff’s iconic yellow cranes; St Anne’s Cathedral along with its 130ft stainless steel Spire Of Hope; Stormont; and Cave Hill, whose head-love rock was supposedly the inspiration for Jonathan Swift’s Gulliver’s Travels.

Saying goodbye to Belfast again, I leave certain I’ll return, not least to optimal my bodhran rhythms. 

Travel Facts: Strategy your very own weekend break in Belfast 

 



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